For my latest Index3s I’ve used the YEP ESC. This ESC is smaller and it made me work on my soldering skills. It does not have a BEC but that is no problem with D47 high voltage servos. It seems more smoother and less noisy than the Turnigy.
Since I started flying 80cm F3P models I’ve always used the Turnigy 6A ESC, it was cheap and always available for us Australians from Hobby King, It seemed to work fine, I was only using three small servos! Then one winter during some cold mornings I started having problems with the BEC. Sometimes when accelerating upwards the AR6300 would loss signal and then regain it, just missing a large tree which was always in the way!
One easy way to overcome BEC issues is to use high voltage 2 cell powered servos. As DSM2 receivers can also handle up to 9volts, moving one wire on the ESC will change everything to 2cell (6.5-8.4volts).
Dymond D47 servos are slow but very precise and reliable. I’ve been using them for over three years now with no failures at all. At 105 grams total aircraft weight one D47 has no trouble with the two ailerons. Powering at two cells brings the servo speed up and gets rid of the BEC problems. The 4 channel Hobby King Orange Receiver is a perfect match for the plugs on the D47’s. I have also arranged the servos in my aircraft to suit the standard lead lengths. D47’s come in two versions, standard with white horns and the D47S (faster higher geared) with red horns.
Just unsolder the red positive servo wire on the speed controller and move it around to the positive battery contact on the other side. All done, 2cell powered and no problems.
You can also reduce weight further by removing the shrink wrap and replacing the aerial on the receiver.
Axi is the Rolls Royce of indoor outrunners. I have one in a VVP index, it runs smooth and it’s beautifully made, unfortunately too heavy for our needs.
The Glavak looks good but very expensive.
The Turnigy 2204 looks to be a copy of the AXI, and at only $8 we can do some work to it.
Remove the rear clip and front screws, remove the front of the engine watching out for the small washer inside on the shaft. Roll some blue tack into a worm and put it inside, up against the magnets, then place it in a lathe to be cut down. Take off the chrome and then as much metal as you dare. That steel ring is very heavy! You can also do some extra milling around the front.
Use the blue tack to remove any metal shavings from the motor. Remove the 3mm steel shaft and replace it with a hollow carbon fibre replacement. You then use a 1mm carbon rod instead of the locking screws. A rear locking clip is not needed,